Powering Air Tools with a SCUBA Tank

Note: Since it's hard to buy scuba tanks and get them filled without a certification card, I'm assuming here that anyone interested in putting a scuba air tool rig together is familiar with the dive gear side. No links to diving equipment are provided except for the adapter to get into the air tool domain. If you're interested in this sort of thing but don't have a tank and access to air, consider POWERTANK, a liquid CO2 arrangement that gets good reviews and looks like it's more portable than a comparable scuba system. I've heard it's safer too, though the danger of transporting scuba tanks in cars is often overblown. Working with high pressure gas can be dangerous. You assume all responsibility for safety if referring to this page for information. Caveats for 21st century morons are omitted. If that's a problem, please read no further. Glossary at the bottom — here. Thanks to Andrew Sharp for his post at afmracing.org that gave me a great start.

I have not tested this system underwater, nor does this page address such use.

Why use a scuba tank for air tools?
Not much reason unless you have the scuba stuff already and would benefit from a portable, short-burst, limited-capacity air supply for one or more limited duration tools (not sanders, angle grinders, or similar tools when used continuously).

Below is my setup with an impact wrench (in attachment order from left to right), a perfect match for this type of air supply. Some pics are clickable for a bigger version. Links are for equipment info and pics only, since you can find lower prices elsewhere for most of them:


Home

created: april 2004
updated: march 2005

doh!: this page is sometimes linked to in discussions where blowhards insist, "yadda yadda, you can't use an impact wrench with a SCUBA tank, yadda yadda. it doesn't last. yadda."

answer: i'm not selling anything; this really does work well for tools like impact wrenches (not die grinders, etc.).



Scuba tank
80 CF, 3000 PSI

Scuba regulator
Only the first stage and one of its low pressure ports (~125 PSI) are used.

BC hose
Standard quick-release connector

Adapter
BC connector to 1/4" NPT(M)

Reducer bushing
1/4" NPT(F) to 3/8" NPT(M)

Air filter / regulator / lubricator
3/8” NPT

Reducer bushing
3/8" NPT(M) to 1/4" NPT(F)

Rubber air hose
3/8" x 25'

Coupler
1/4” Female

Plug
1/4” Male

Whip hose
3/8" x 2.5’

Impact wrench
1/2" drive

That setup's what I chose, but there are many ways to do it. Some prefer a welding regulator in place of the 2 regs in this scheme. Or, depending on the air tool and its air/lube requirements, it's plausible to use only the scuba reg (no downstream reg/filter/lube). Scuba air is notoriously clean. Ultimately depends on how hot your first stage scuba reg is though.

What I paid to add air tool ability

Quantity Description Part code Price Extended
1
Filter/Regulator/Lubricator PA2078 $99.18 $99.18
1
Rubber hose, 3/8" x 25' PA1182 17.53 17.53
1
Adaptor, BC connector to 1/4" NPT(M) AA04 8.00 8.00
1
Whip hose, 3/8" x 2.5' MP5137 6.98 6.98
1
Connector Kit, 1/4” PA1014 6.25 6.25
2
Reducer Bushing, 3/8"(M) to 1/4"(F) PA1112 1.52 3.04
1
Tool oil, 8 oz ST1270 1.20 1.20
1
Teflon tape MP5136 0.97 0.97
Subtotal: 143.15
Shipping: 14.00
Total: $157.15

Pros and cons

    Pros
  • Portable.
  • Fast recovery because of the high tank pressure.
  • More than enough burst power for most air tools. My impact wrench (pictured above) needs between 5 and 24 CFM depending on load, and it works well here.
  • Lasts longer than most people would figure.
  • For many, finding a dive shop to refill the tank is easier than finding places to refill other kinds of tanks, like Nitrogen or CO2. (Non-divers may be able to arrange a "no C-card" situation with a fill station if the air's to be used only for tools. If so, don't ruin your good deal by telling the wrong people which shop it is.)
  • Saves buying a compressor with comparable performance if only needed on occasion.
    Cons
  • The usual tank hassles (e.g., fill scarcity/expense; weight; rolling around during transport; possible missile/rupture hazard during a collision).
  • Peak pressure dies off fairly quickly, probably because of constrictions between the tank valve and the downstream regulator. Scuba regs aren't designed for prolonged, high-volume operation, and the skinny BC hose doesn't help. If you go in knowing that, it can be worked around easily for most intermittent applications.
  • Can be a drag to either haul the second stage regs around or disconnect them (assuming you dive with the same first stage).
  • Slight performance change as tank empties. Can be tweaked with the second, adjustable regulator.

Buying parts
Home Depot has a pretty good selection, though I doubt you'll find the prefab Reg/Filter/Lubricator there. They should have enough separate components to put something together. I bought almost everything online, but at a place I wouldn't buy from again (nincompoops). CARQUEST has an amazing selection of air tool hardware, as do some ma & pa hardware stores.

The toughest part to find may be the BC to 1/4" NPT adapter. You can try here and here (part code 57300), but you might just want to drop by your local dive shop, buy one of their usual BC Tire Inflator deals like this, then remove the first section — which appears to be the exact adapter that's needed. There aren't many shops that sell it by itself, though they can probably order it (Trident part code AA04). If you google the part and find your way to "Mike's Scuba", let me recommend that you buy a metal lathe and build whatever you need before messing with them.

If you don't have any air tool parts already, look into getting some of the widgets in kits such as this:


1/4” Automotive connector kit
There may be some things you won't use, but it's cheaper sometimes.

Other stuff needed for a smoove deal:

Air tool oil
(Clean regular SAE30 motor oil works too.)

Teflon tape
No leaks. Easy to use.

Assembly
Wrap each threaded male connector after the BC hose with teflon tape (in the direction that will keep it tight as it's screwed in). That includes dead plugs and any gauges. Don't overtighten to prevent leaks; the teflon tape seals with minimal torque. Also, the NPT connectors are tapered, which seals without breakneck force. Put oil in the lubricator if you have one, then make sure all filter/lube receptacles are in and settled. Do not connect the high pressure port on the scuba regulator to the air tool system; the BC hose is attached to the low pressure port as usual.

Operation
For the first run, have everything connected but the air tool. Open up the tank valve slowly and be prepared to close it. It's normal for the BC quick-release to leak slightly. If you don't hear any other leaks, open the tank valve fully (and back it off a smidge if you follow that controversial dive tradition). Then adjust the downstream regulator until the gauge indicates at or slightly above the recommended pressure for whatever air tool you're using (+10 PSI works for me). Don't be surprised if the gauge reads 0 when you start; my regulator was shipped in the off position. When the pressure's set, connect the air tool and give it a pop.

There's something important to consider if you're going to dive with the same regulator. It seems possible to me that oil could backflow into the BC hose and maybe slightly contaminate the breathing. Not sure though. I try to keep the BC hose from sloping directly down toward the tank. Also, when powering down I like to pop the BC quick-release while there's still a little pressure, so maybe it has a chance to blow out any oil that made it in. It could be argued that oil won't go against the air flow, but if the rig's just sitting under static pressure, I'd guess gravity's more important.

Related links
Campbell Hausfeld's recommended air tool system layouts
Frequently Asked Questions about the Power Tank (great pictures and performance stats)
DIY welding regulator route

Glossary

BC: Buoyancy Compensator — now often called BCD (Buoyancy Control Device) for some reason.

CF: Cubic Feet

CFM: Cubic Feet per Minute — the standard airflow measure for air tools and systems. Some tools need a lot more air pushed through than others.

CO2: Carbon Dioxide

Coupler: Far as I can tell, that's a standard air tool term for a quick-release connector.

Downstream Regulator: That's just my term for the standard adjustable air tool regulator that, in my system, comes after the scuba part. One could argue that it's unnecessary for some tools, but I prefer having it as a safety. It can also be used to manually bump the system pressure back up a little as the tank pressure falls.

F: Female

M: Male

NPT: National Pipe Thread

PSI: Pounds per Square Inch — a pressure measure.

SCUBA: Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus. Usually not treated as an acronym anymore.

Whip hose: A short hose with a ball swivel end which some recommend be used with certain air tools (especially impact wrenches):
  • Reduces twisting and kinking of air hose.
  • Relieves strain on the tool's threads.
  • Supposedly "dampens vibration from air supply." (Based on where I read that, I'm guessing it was made up to aid the spread of socialism in the UK.)
  • Increases wrist mobility.
  • Reduces hand and forearm fatigue.
  • Offers convenient way to connect air supply without touching the tool, preventing accidental trigger squeeze while distracted.
  • [Obscure argument alert] If connected directly to air tool (recommended), could increase quick-release plug life in cases of the tool being thrown around.